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With its colour matching her skin tone, the dress, which was so tight that Monroe had to be sewn into it, gave the impression she was nude

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If womens clothes in the intervening 20 years broadly reflected her easy line and the industry was dominated by women like her, in 1947 Dior, representing a new breed of male couturier, challenged it directly with the New Look, clothes with voluptuous flowing lines achieved with corsets and pointy bras and, after the austerity of war, rejoicing in the shockingly extravagant use of materials